From 1850 to 1970 thereabouts- this was the century of the Cote d’Azur as we know it from all novels – the "La vie en rose" – where everybody and his/her mother within the upper class just HAD to pass some months of the year along the Cote – after or before a shopping trip to Paris, of course.
There are 2 things I’ll always remember from my 1st visit at the Cote and Nizza with my Father – I was about 5 years old at that time:
1) a miniture horse of the size of a large dog that belonged to a group of gypsies I was so fascinsated by my dad had to actually CARRY me away from it, I was passionately in love with this horse. Had my mopther been along, I would not even have been allowed to touch the animal….since it belonged to gypsies not looking and smelling all too clean…well, you know the rest.
2) a heavenly view of the blue Baie des Anges, which was present in all my future and rather clumsy watercolours – I’m trying to mix this exact blue to this day – unsuccessfully, I’d like to say.
FACIT: It REALLY pays to travel with your kids to places of culture-:) they come home with unforgettable memories!
Whoever wants to have this first, heavenly view of the Baie des Anges (The Bay of Angels) – should just take the lazy way = a lift at the Eastern side of Nizza up to Castle-Mountain. The young and sporty ones will take the steps up to the Colline du Chateau, you are welcome!
The Chateau is but a ruin these days, but it does not matter, because from this wide + large park you have such a breathtaking view – the Mediterreanean shimmers in those turkish-blue coulours you know from famous paintings, the Bay of Angels cozies up softly to the city beach and the broad Promenade des Anglais is brilliantly present with all its prunky old grand historical buildings along its way.
Directly beyond the Colline du Chateau is Vielle Ville – the old town of Nizza, where you have those colourful houses (much loved by aquarell painters-:) in ockre-yellow and rusty-red – which border the Cours Saleya, the most lovely place of the old town.
Every Monday flying merchants from France + Italy are selling Antiques there – really beautiful rare + valuable things, while others sell as well the Kitsch, of course, but if you happen to be there on other days, this is also worth your while, its the place where flowers are being sold (Marche aux Fleurs) fruit and veggies. Small Cafes, Bars and Bistros around the Cours Saleya invite you for a Noisette, the French form of Espresso with foamed up milk, or 2 eights (=125ml) of country wine from the Provence – mostly low in Alcohol, and in the evening you’ll even hear Jazz music if you are lucky.
In the small streets behind the Saleya the shops selling olive oil and soap are crowding each other, ice-saloons and bars + restaurants abound in the old city of Nizza.
What you MUST try +is typical for Nizza – it’s called "Socca" and is this very thin pancake like bread made out of a special flower and olive oil – much like the Indian bread- but even thinner and very special in taste when completly fresh+ crispy coming out of the pan!
As I said above, in the 19th century the British dicovered Nizza as THE preferred EUROPEAN holiday destination in Wintertime. Needless to say – the American were soon to follow – although not much liked – (pecunia non olet (=money does not stink)was the motto of those times (just like it is today).
Nowadays you’ll see not so much elegance, of course, rather old and young couples promenading the des Anglais along, arm in arm, the small doggy with strass-collar and leash. In between bikers flashing along, joggers and inline skaters – all of them using and enjoying the luscious space of the Bay of Angels. All those spledid old buildings – starting with the Hotel Negresco, are still lovely, it still smells of old times, you see James Bond with a lovely Blonde on this side desceding from an elegant limo in your phantasy- as they did in one or the other film you have seen.
Now my best travel secret of the Cote d’Azur – don’t eat on the Promenade if you can help it – even a mini-menue is overpriced there and tastes mediocre at best. There’s plenty of alternatives elsewhere.
For all friends of arts- Nizza is heaven. Only Paris has more museums than Nizza. Musee des Beaux Arts Jules Cheret, Musee Matisse in the Villa des Arenes, Musee Chagall and the Musee Archeologique on the noble Hill Cimiez – to mention the most worthy in my very personal view of preferences – I might add!
But for the very young – who usually loath Museums – you have the open Air Art in Nizza at the beginning of the Promendade des Anglais – the Theatre de Verdure – you can enjoy Ballet and Plays of the more modern kind in open air.
Now my next travel secret of Nizza: you take the tram from the Promenade du Paillon and the Jardin d’Albert 1st, and along for 9km you’ll see 14 works (sculptures) of contemporary artists of reknown and lets say – most are impressing – all this for Euro 1,- !! Yep – just Euro 1,-…. while other cities are all saving money etc. – Nizza is lavish to its citicens, it seems, adding new amusements each year.
When the widow of Zar Nikolaus II., Alexandra Feodorowna, moved to Nizza in 1856, troops of rich Russian aristrocrats followed her and with them a competition "who has the most splendid villa" began – a fact we can still enjoy today by looking at them – Cimiez is worth a nice walk – nowadays – those splendid summer villas are often turned into lovely appartments – but you can still feel the "Ancien Regime" around there. And – as mentioned – walk up the hill to the Matisse Museum – directly besides a convent from the 16th century; go in the morning (very few people) and find a quiet corner to enjoy the gardens and the view around the Bay – it’s splendid and unforgettable.
Just a few minutes by car away from Nizza is Cap Ferrat. This most elegant peninsula of the Cote houses one of the most lovely museums – the pink Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild – full of wall carpets from the 15-17th centuries, paintings, furniture, china etc. In the park you get sculputres, fountains and water-plays, and the view from the veranda there is unbelievably beautiful.
Another jewel is villa Kerylos in Beaulieu. This mondane villa was actually only built in the 19th century, but in the style of a Greek Villa with outstanding wallpapers and mosaik floors and all other surroundings, and on this veranda – you’ll have a view where the Mediterrenean is suddenly ultramarin-blue. It will leave you speechless – I promise you!
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Speaking with the director you hear his greatest worry: when the coffins are opened after 20 years or so, the soulless bodies are in a surprisingly good condition still. That’s why they have to be brought to the bathing island Lido in an aerated coffin and put into an "anonymous" grave there and left to really decompose properly, before they can return into their grave on San Michele. Some scientists have gone into these phenomena as to why decomposition is practically not happening on San Michele and put it down to its special air quality. The director, however, holds the opinion it’s due to modern hygiene and the sealed coffins in which the bodies are brought here. In old times, the bodies were laid out at home, mostly in warm weather, for a couple of days, and the flies were all over, and so opened the circle of decomposition.
t’s been a place of travel novelists of all classes, from Chatwin downwards, for people writing their diploma thesis – and for Donald
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